PICK OF THE WEEK By Pete Luckett
NOT RELEASED FOR PUBLICATION

OH, THE DARLING CLEMENTINE

ZIPPY, SWEET ORANGE A SEASONAL FAVOURITE

ACCORDING TO citrus "specialists" (the farmers who grow them) the
clementine is a hybrid variety of the common mandarin orange. These tiny,
brilliantly coloured, pebbly-skinned citrus fruit are also called clemmies
or zipper-skins (for obvious reasons). Kids and adults alike love the
clementines for their easy-peeling, often seedless, convenience, but most of
all for their incredibly sweet yet zippy flavour. Clementines are also plump
and dripping with juice when in their prime.
As they are a hybrid mixed from many varieties, over time the older
strains will repeat themselves resulting in fruit with seeds. It's rather
like Russian Roulette, trying to guess which are seedless and which aren't.
The clementine's origins are a bit sketchy at best. Some believe they are
the product of an accidental planting by a Catholic Father who lovingly
tended his garden in an orphanage in Algiers. Others think they are
identical to a Canton variety that already existed. Either way, this tiny
tasty dynamo is a much-anticipated treat.
The clementine was introduced to Southern California citrus groves, but
never really "took root" so to speak and is still grown primarily in
Morrocco and Spain. They are available as early as October and run through
to February. The later crop in markets now are the best for flavour and
juiciness. The similar Japanese Satsuma used to be the No. 1 Christmas
citrus treat, but as they arrived in parts along the West Coast, they were
shipped by rail and truck to the East Coast. This meant we had to make due
with fruit having a shorter shelf-life and a higher price. The clementines
arrive in ports along the Eastern Seaboard providing fresher fruit and lower
prices.
This time of year, clementines are available in bulk or in neat wooden
crates. The price is right and the flavour is probably as good as it gets.
Choose clementines as you would other citrus fruit. Heft them for weight and
give it a gentle thumb squeeze. They should feel plump and have a little
"give".
Clementines are incredibly flavourful and have little or no bitter
membrane between their easily separated segments. They are perfect to keep
on hand for desserts of any kind or sauces to accompany sweets, meat,
seafood, or poultry, drinks or just to snack on out-of-hand. A box of
clementines will disappear as fast as sweets. The kids love 'em three and
four at a time.
In their countries of origin, they are often served as is, with coffee,
tea or liqueur to "sweeten the breath and clear the palate" after a meal. On
their own they are great; saut�ed with brown sugar, butter, cinnamon and a
smidgen of brandy, they're fabulous! Spoon on some cream and serve with
coffee for a tasty simple end to a meal. One of my kid's favourite desserts
is clementines and banana slices topped with "Birds" Custard Powder and a
sprinkle of cinnamon.
As with all citrus fruit, clementines are an excellent source of vitamin C
and also provide fibre.
For a bit of perfection, slip a skin off of a clementine, grab a few
napkins and dive in!
Greengrocer and TV personality Pete Luckett owns and operates Pete's
Frootique and European Delicatessen in Bedford, Nova Scotia.

CLEMENTINE RECIPES

CLEMENTINE CUSTARD
2 eggs
1 1/4 cups milk
2 Tbsp brown sugar
pinch of salt
2 small clementines
1/4 tsp ground cinnamon

Beat eggs to blend, then stir in milk, sugar, and salt. Mix well, but do
not beat. Pour through a strainer. Rinse the clementines and grate enough
rind to make one half teaspoon. Add the peel to the custard mixture. Peel
and divide the clementines into sections. Then cut each section in half,
then arrange in individual custard cups or a casserole dish or bread pan.
Pour the custard mixture gently over the clementines. Place the dish inside
another larger baking dish. Lightly grate cinnamon over the custard. Pour
boiling water into larger pan to come halfway up smaller dish. Carefully
place in pre-heated 350 F oven. For individual dishes cook for 25 minutes,
larger dish for 45-60 minutes until just set. Remove from water-filled pan
and cool before serving.

CLEMENTINE CREPES
1/2 cup marmalade
1/4 cup unsalted butter
1/4 cup icing sugar
1 Tbsp grated rind of scrubbed clementine
1/2 cup orange juice
6 clementines
1 Tbsp Grand Marnier

Crepes: (can be made a day ahead)
3/4 cup sifted flour
3 eggs
2 Tbsp oil
3/4 cup milk

For crepes - blend eggs, flour, oil, and milk until smooth. Heat a small
non-stick skillet and spray with oil. Pour 2 to 3 tablespoons. batter into
pan, swirling quickly to spread evenly. Cook until lightly browned, turn and
brown other side. Repeat with batter until finished.
Spread each crepe with marmalade and fold into quarters. Combine butter,
sugar and orange juice in a large flat skillet. Stir over heat until
bubbling. Cut clementine's segments in half or slice clementines into on
quarter-inch rounds, add these with the liqueur to pan and stir until
blended. Lower heat and add crepes to pan, heat through and serve
immediately. Sprinkle rind on each.

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